Le Plaisir

The pleasure principle — that we are entirely motivated by the attraction to pleasure and the avoidance of pain, has come to the cultural/political/economic news cycle foreground lately, in so many ways. What an ironic coincidence, for one, that the…

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Come to your Senses

I’ve been on kind of a perfume hiatus for a bit, but was re-energized by my package arriving from the Perfumed Court, of a selection of musk samples. It was exciting to try them all one after the other, but in the end, I find this confirms what I sus…

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Harajuku and Visual kei (by a Perfume Otaku)

I have been fascinated lately by the creativity and the extremity of the Japanese subcultures in fashion and make up styles. There is a vocabulary that has been developed to describe some of the concepts. Otaku, to my understanding, describes a pers…

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Musk

I recently became aware, through reading an entry by Christopher Brosius in his I Hate Perfume blog about the chemical musk situation in perfume and how it affects different people so much. (Please see his post here, it’s well worth reading if you hav…

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A World of Summer Heat and Perfume

This long heat wave combined with high humidity and intermittent intense electrical storms in NYC makes it seem to me like we are all engaged in playing an extreme form of city/weather sports. I think of enduring the weather and the conditions it cau…

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Bertrand Duchaufour

Last week Bertrand Duchaufour came to the 82nd and Madison branch of L’Artisan to talk about a new perfume, to be released in October of 2008. For the time being, it is not to be specifically described, but suffice it to say it is a continuation of th…

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Summer in the City

Because summer is the season we are outdoors the most, even in the city, the scents emanating from everything around us will then have the strongest effect on our daily lives. I am fortunate to live near an enormous old park (Prospect, designed by Olm…

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What the Nose Knows

This book by Avery Gilbert, who is a smell scientist/psychologist, describes aspects of the sense of smell through lots of entertaining and instructive anecdotes. They range a wide spectrum across nature and chemistry from the beautiful to the terri…

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Midsummer Night Festivities

Midsummer festivities are June 20, a Friday night, downtown at the water’s edge in NYC this year, sponsored by the Swedish consulate and the Parks department. They promise 3-5 thousand people, many of them Swedish or from some other far Northern pers…

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YSL and the Seventies and Opium

All the tributes and postings on Yves Saint Laurent this week have brought forth nostalgia in me for the seventies. Personally handsome, he had an aware, melancholic, elegant and slender beauty. He was a fragile yet bold introvert who seemed constantl…

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Writing Lyrical Poetry by Soivohle’

This is a ‘mixed media’ eau de parfume by Liz Zorn in her Soivohle’ brand. Soivohle’ stands for the acronym of her daily morning meditation: Sending Out Inspired Vibrations Of Healthy Loving Energy. This line is made of a combination of a high level …

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Aroma - The Cultural History of Smell

This book is a rich experience for those who are sensualists of the scented world. It has been out for some time (1994, by Classon, Howes and Synnott) and is well known, but I personally have only just started reading it, and finding it an immense ple…

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Super-heroines and the Senses

During a visit to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, I chanced upon an exhibit of exquisitely beautiful super-heroine costumes. (There are some super heroes too, but that is another story — these MMA essays are fascinating). The designs i…

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Perfumes - The Guide

Reading the Turin/Sanchez book is so much fun. They are opinionated and unapologetically subjective. Their personalities are so big and they give them free rein, so I find it a joy to read. Why read anything about perfume if it is not entirely idio…

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Red Flower

At the Red Flower presentation at the Sniffa at Blue Mercury there were samples of the three certified organic fragrances, which I was very pleasantly surprised by. I usually do not have very high expectations of a perfume created under such strict an…

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Septimanie Perfumes

One of the perfumes featured by Aedes for the Spring Sniffa was Pavillon des Fleurs, an eau de parfum by Septimanie Perfumes and Jeanne Weber was there to talk about it. As a garden designer, she is inspired by the mood lifting experience of the bloom…

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Hyacinths Spring into Action

Hello all, yes, it’s been awhile! The new season and its sense of renewal is including me.The Spring always seems like the beginning of a new year to me, rather than January 1st. I think the gardeners would agree with me.Today was balmy and soft, the f…

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Notes and Explanations

I have been working on getting something new online so I haven’t been posting much here lately, and now I feel that I must take the next two months off as far as posting on this site goes (pretty much) to concentrate on getting the new project off the …

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Fragrance and True Love - (Pablo Neruda)

I wanted to share this poem I happened to find this morning. It delivers a powerful message about emotional connections forming spontaneously between a deep, complex scent and a strong emotion — they can become identified with each other as one and…

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Aftermath

Having gone to the Fall Sniffapalooza on Saturday, I came away with a number of impressions. Actually, the experience is so intensive it takes a few days to sink in. One thing I was ultra happy about was finally meeting the perfumista-par-excellence …

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Natural Perfumes

Today is blog action day, and thousands of blogs are participating in order to bring attention to environmental issues - see link here. This put me in mind of something I read recently (in Scent of Desire by Rachel Herz - see my posting below) about th…

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Style Icon of the Sixties: Anna Karina

Everyone has their personal style icons, and some of mine were formed by watching foreign films from the early to mid sixties. One whose beauty really spoke to me was Anna Karina, in her Godardian incarnation. She has an ineffable quality in her sensit…

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Layering in October

There are as many ways to layer scents as there are to layer clothes, which can be a good way to deal with the variable temperatures, atmospheric conditions and moods of the Fall.Lately I find I am increasingly drawn to this practice. Combining and set…

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The Scent of Desire by Rachel Herz

The Scent of Desire: Discovering Our Enigmatic Sense of Smell, by Rachel Herz is a new book on the psychology of smell, that promises much — that is, to astonish as it informs. There are a number of things not commonly known about this most mysterio…

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DIY and Home Fragrance on Now Smell This

Please check out my posting on Now Smell This today on making floral waters for personal use, (most particularly about Lavender Water). I will be posting from time to time on Now Smell This about scented body care products, home fragrances, and some …

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Guerlain Master Class - Sniffapalooza

One of the best things about belonging to Sniffapalooza, is being invited to events such as the Guerlain master class this past weekend. It was a luxurious sensory review of Guerlain’s fragrances; a dreamy experience. There were also spectacula…

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Reflection

I wanted to change the look of this site because the black background was starting to seem too heavy to me, it was too much of an influence on the feel of the writing and the illustrations. I may make more changes before I am through, so please be pat…

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Apivita

After a long period of time in a perfume or EDP mode, I have lately come to really appreciate Eau de Toilette. At the last Sniffa I got a sample of Euphoria EDT with Ylang Ylang/Vanilla made by Apivita which I never tried till now, because I have be…

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Etro

End of Summer but before the beginning of Autumn, these days it seems too late to wear light summer perfumes but not quite time for the more powerful ones appropriate to colder weather. I have a number of Etro samples, and because they are Eau de Toil…

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Absolutes

Recently I received a selection of absolutes from two sources, Anya’s Garden, and Nature’s Gift. It was almost overwhelming because each one is so intensely dimensional and requires time for development and reflection on the experience. From Anya’s G…

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Balmy Days and Sundays

The mild breeze of warm, pleasantly sweet and clear air is called balmy. The very word balmy calls forth pleasant associations. The concept of balm is identified with particular sweet smelling plants and resins, and soft air that seems to have a caress…

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After the Rain

After the Rain is the title of a very classic, evocative short piece by John Coltrane and also is one of the most universally loved scents. There is a difference between before and after the rain scents. Before is caused by an increase in ozone in c…

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Rest, Unrest, and Roses

Insomnia has been plaguing me, as it does many. Fighting it too hard can be counterproductive. I find it best to just accept it and look for rest in other ways. I read somewhere recently that ten minutes of deep relaxation each day will do all mann…

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Jasmine Days

August for me is the month of jasmine, it’s the quintessential scent of summer. It has that heavy sweetness and mellow buttery undertone, that seems to lift into the humidity of August like an embodiment of deep joy itself.I would love to go to Grass…

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Niche Perfumers

When I try to explain my interest in niche perfumes and the current explosion of creativity in that area of endeavor, I find that it easiest to relate some stories about the niche perfume makers. Learning about the new perfumers who have been doing …

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Sillage: ephemeral beauty

Some enjoy a big sillage, the ephemeral, trailing cloud of scent left behind in the wake of a perfume, that acts as a distinctive signature to a stylish persona.The humidity of summer creates a very conducive atmosphere for the sense of smell. Sill…

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Vanilla

One of the most precious and valuable plant substances and an important factor in many perfumes, vanilla was a great discovery for Europeans when they encountered the Aztec aristocracy drinking vanilla flavored chocolate from gold cups. They imported …

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Bigelow Chemists, NYC

Bigelow’s, in the West Village on Sixth Avenue near Eighth Street claims to be the oldest continually operating drug store/apothecary in the U.S., and it’s well worth a visit for anyone who loves to get involved with considering their options as to p…

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Perfume Noir and Duende

In the style of “black” or dark perfumes are Datura Noir, Nobre Noir, Noir Epices, Orris Noir, Narcisse Noir, Crystal Noir, Noir de Noir, and Rose Noir, to name a few. What they have in common is perhaps an earthy basenote such as oakmoss or spices …

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Ode to the Smell of Wood

by Pablo Nerudatranslated by Jodey BatemanLate, with the starsopen in the coldI open the door. The seagallopedin the night.Like a handfrom the dark housecame the intensearomaof firewood in the pile.The aroma was visibleasif the treewere alive.As if…

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Notions of Beauty

Some prefer beauty that is an expression of the harmonious while others prefer it with a touch of the strange or unusual. So many reviews of certain fragrances are at variance with my own experience of them, and I am always bemused when I find that t…

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Vintage Perfumes - Remembrance of Things Past

Summer is a good time to begin or to reread Proust, or Colette, or Nabokov, or any of the specifically detailed writers about everyday beauty of the past, or to personally revisit many of the experiences similar to their described sense memories which …

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Ava Luxe

Ava Luxe is an artisan perfume line from California created by Serena Ava Franco, based on inspirations from modern culture, music and art. Her fragrances are currently available only online directly from her well organized site. Her products are ext…

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Sources for Essences

Liberty Natural, White Lotus Aromatics, and Profumo, are special suppliers of high quality essences, for those of us who like to gain exposure to and use the basic and exotic materials of fragrances and beauty ingredients. Each of them also have wond…

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Ambergris

Ambergris, the precious animalic substance that stabilizes and enhances fine perfumes and essences, is very rare in its natural form, therefore very expensive, since unfortunately its source has become more and more rare. The giant sperm whale, whic…

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Poiret

So many have written extensively and beautifully about the Met exhibition on Poiret, the first modern designer to create a life-style to reflect his individual sensibility with clothing, interior design, and signature perfume. It gives me the feeling …

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Sigmar Polke’s New Paintings Must be Fragrant

Recent attention to Sigmar Polke’s use of lavender oil in his latest work reminded me of the significantly aromatic nature of oil painting. I have always found the smell of linseed oil, aka flax seed oil to be delicious, and since it all comes from t…

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Sniffapalooza Event - Creed Master Class 2

This past Sunday we had yet another wonderful perfumista event in NYC - the main attraction was the second Creed Master Class presented by Roberto Ferreira at Saks Fifth Avenue for Sniffapalooza. One of the best parts was the review of Creed’s history …

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Vetiver

Vetiver is fashionable these days, and has always been used in wide array of perfumes, because it is so intensely aromatic and it blends so well with many other of the classic natural elements. The plant is a tall grass in the same family as bamboo; lo…

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Experiments

Having accumulated some essences of excellent quality from Liberty Naturals and others over time, I have been fooling around and “making messes” as some would say — thothere have been some wonderful “accidents” that I have been able to use for gifts a…

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