The Essence of Perfume by Roja Dove: book review and preview

It wouldn’t be an overstatement to say that Roja Dove is the encyclopaedic resource to turn to on everything perfume-related. Even better that he is a very charming man to talk to as well. A former Cambridge medical student, Roja worked for many years …

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Autumn’s Small Indulgences

Sometimes in order to feel pampered and special one needs a little indulgence to make us feel like we deserve a little something for ourselves. In the spirit of divulging some of my finds to inspire you I am listing some of the things that make me tic…

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New Guerlain Collector’s Editions

Guerlain has been challenging us to show just how serious of a perfume nut we are for some time now: it feels that if we don’t mortgage our house or sell our first born’s kidneys to the black market we’re not quite up there in strategic placement in th…

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Try to Remember when Life was so Tender that No One Wept Except the Willow

“Then summer fades and passes and October comes. We’ll smell smoke then,
and feel an unexpected sharpness, a thrill of nervousness, swift elation, a
sense of sadness and departure.”
~Thomas Wolfe

The end of one season and the progression into another …

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The Mirror Has Two Faces

Narciso Rodriguez has given his two fragrances, For Her and For Him, limited edition mirror-bottles to drive your inner obsessive-compulsive crazy taking care of the inevitable smudges. Come on, admit it, you always wanted to check your lipstick while…

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It Smelled so Good and Now I Am Not Loving it as Much!

One of my readers, the lovely Sandra from Prague, sent me an intriguing mail the other day recounting a phenomenon not unheard of among perfume lovers ~no, not reformulation:
“Before taking off to Tunisia, I bought a fragrance pretty much unsniffed - O…

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Guerlain Gourmand Coquin, Chypre Fatal, Oriental Brulant: fragrance reviews and musings

Like probably half the female population of the affluent West with about 40 minutes to kill on a winter’s week evening ~nails filed at advertising breaks~ I used to watch the comedic escapades of four women on the verge of breakdown (which rarely resul…

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Vetiver Series 5: the Straight, the Strange & the Sweet

There is just something about empyreal vetiver that makes it the perfect transitional olfactory module between an Indian summer of bright blouses and the more serious tweeds of truly autumnal weather. Vetiver’s shades of green oscillate between the pal…

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Roxana Villa of Roxana Illuminated Perfume: Musings on Natural Perfumery, Reviews and Perfume Notes

“Kennst du das Land wo die Zitronen blühen? Im dunklen Laub die Gold-Orangen glühen, ein sanfter Wind vom Blauen Himmel weht,die Myrte still und hoch der Lorbeer steht, Kennst du es wohl?” (=Do you know the land where the lemon trees blossom? Among d…

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Aziyade by Parfum d’Empire: fragrance review

“The delicate exactitude with which he reproduced the impression given to his own alert nerves by unfamiliar forms, colours, sounds and perfumes” is how a contemporary critic describes the cadence literary style of Pierre Loti, French author of “Aziyad…

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Power by Kenzo: fragrance review

by guest writer Mike Perez

The new men’s fragrance, Power by Kenzo, is ‘on paper’ a fragrance that easily entices my curiosity: The perfumer is Olivier Polge (Dior Homme, The One for Men, Flowerbomb) It’s a floral fragrance marketed to men. …

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Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle: fragrance review

It would not be an overstatement to say that the “library” comprised of Frédéric Malle edited tomes of olfactory literature is one of the most stimulating lines in modern perfumery. Now perfumer Maurice Roucel gives us another volume to gnaw our …

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Hilde Soliani News: More Exclusive Stuff Available in NYC Now

You might remember that we had reported and reviewed the new exclusive niche line by Italian jewelry and fragrance designer Hilde Soliani. The magnificent Bell’Antonio, a fragrance focused on multi-nuanced aromatic tobacco and dark roasted coffee, and …

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Notorious by Ralph Lauren: new fragrance and commercial

“The roles have made me famous, but my life has made me Notorious,” says Laetitia Casta (does she realise the ambivalence of the term, I wonder!), iconic French model and budding actress who stars as the sultry face of Notorious , the new Ralph Lau…

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Travel Memoirs: Paris, part 1 ~Guerlain Boutique & Museum, Caron Boutique, Fragonard Museum

introducing guest writer Elysium

There might be doubts about which perfume is the most beautiful, but there is no dispute about where the Mecca of fine fragrances lies. Paris, La Ville-lumière, is the place where people from all over the world gath…

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Chanel Les Exclusifs Beige: fragrance review

Beige evokes different things for different people: from the suave to the anodyne all the way to lackluster, it is a neutral nuanced enough to escape the unambiguous reactions to black or white. Although the adjective has degenerated into invoking a bl…

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The elusive Seraphim by Ormonde Jayne: the What, the How and the Why

Today I am trying to disentangle the thread of the elusive Seraphim by Ormonde Jayne and to clear misunderstandings: surely such an elusive fragrance should have something important to say instead of putting question-marks all over the place. Surely so…

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Jitterbug perfume oil from Opus Oils: fragrance review

“Plants that wake when others sleep. Timid jasmine buds that keep their fragrance to themselves all day, but when the sunlight dies away let the delicious secret out to every breeze that roams about.” It is in those enraptured words that Thomas More s…

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Interview with a Perfumer: Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne

Talking to the woman behind the heady array of exquisite scents circulating under the brand name Ormonde Jayne proved to be not only deeply stimulating but also utterly delightful. Linda Pilkington has the well-bred, kind voice that matches her tiny at…

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Roja Dove’s New Book at a Discount for our Readers

Roja Dove, for years “professeur des parfums” at Guerlain and mastermind of Harrod’s Haute Parfumerie in London (a Mekka pilgrimage for any perfume afficionado) has written a new book, The Essence of Perfume. What is it about?
“Dove leads us on a fasci…

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Cinquieme Sens NYC Perfume Workshop

Cinquième Sens is a company founded in Paris in 1976 taking its name from the Fifth Sense, our sense of smell. They are now offering training programmes and workshops for the appreciation of fragrance for professionals as well as fragrance lovers.
Fir…

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Weekend Break

Between travel and work I am taking two days off to conduct a couple of interviews.
Will be back next week with exciting features, the continuation of our vetiver adventures and some (hopefully) interesting commentary on various fragrant matters.
I …

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The Island of Dr.Muglerstein: what is Thierry Mugler doing now?

Some of us, last time we checked, have singed our retinas with an image of unrecognisable designer Thierry Mugler as Manfred the body-builder (was the name intentionally Byronesque?)in socks, sandals and little else. Everyone is free to do as they see…

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Shalimar Eau Legere, Shalimar Light and Eau de Shalimar: Review,Comparison & History

Why would a legend need modernising? Why would anyone take a mythical perfume such as Shalimar and create lighter versions of it?
The answer is simple and rather alarming on certain levels: the modern young consumer doesn’t especially like the original…

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Shalimar by Guerlain: Review and History Info for an Iconic Oriental

Shalimar…its sonorous name reverberates long after its smell has evaporated, conjuring images of prodigal sensuality and old-fashioned romanticism like no other; holding us spellbound in a mirage of forbidden dreams. And yet, the very name which mean…

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Announcement: Andy Tauer’s “Vetiver Dance” Winners!

The time you’ve been all waiting for has finally come!

Scentscelf, Dimitri the redolent one, Vetiveronica, Six’ and the Anonymous (?)who mailed me from Italy all win a sample of the new, unreleased Vetiver Dance. Please mail me (using the address in …

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Perfume Shrine 2008-09-09 17:40:00

The results for the Tauer full bottle and sample draw will be announced tomorrow. Sorry for the delay, but the participation has been overwhelming with over 100 entries to run through the random site (my fingers ache but it was worth it).
Thanks for yo…

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Infusion d’Homme by Prada: fragrance review

~Introducing guest writer Mike Perez

Iris. In a men’s fragrance. What’s the first scent that pops into your head? I would be surprised, if you didn’t immediately think of Dior Homme by Christian Dior.

Dior Homme, released in 2005 has become the…

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The new Shalimar by Guerlain commercial with Natalia Vodianova

A few days ago we introduced the new face of Shalimar by parfums Guerlain, Natalia Vodianova, shot by Italian photographer Paolo Roversi. The ad prints that will appear in major fashion and beauty magazines only give a hint of the upcoming advertising …

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Laura Mercier exclusive Nuits Enchantees in the US: fragrance news

Laura Mercier has a UK-only limited edition fragrance for women coming to the US, available at Nordstorm for 4 days only. It’s Nuit Enchantées (=Enchanted Nights), inspired by the One Thousand and One Nights tale and tagged as “the perfect sensual sc…

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Credit to Sniffapalooza

Congrats to Raphaella Brescia Barkley, Editor in Chief of the Sniffapalooza Magazine, for scoring: the online magazine that emerged out of the Snifapalooza NYC event has been going from strength to strength lately and has found its audience, among them…

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Reduced Prices at Neil Morris

We’re pleased to bring you good news for Neil Morris fans: contrary to most firms, there is a decrease in prices, which is great if you have been contemplating getting one of those famous Vault scents (I highly recommend Dark Season, Dark Earth and Par…

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Sycomore by Chanel: fragrance review

“Do you come from Heaven or rise from the abyss, Beauty?
Your gaze, divine and infernal,
Pours out confusedly benevolence and crime,
And one may for that, compare you to wine …
From God or Satan, who cares? Angel or Siren,
Who cares, if you make— …

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The Guerlain Conundrum

If you have been under a rock in a cave in the Sumatran soil, you might have missed the discussion around Guerlain’s modus operandi of the last few years. Let’s do a very brief recap for those of you who might have: First there was a colossus who bough…

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New face for Shalimar by Guerlain

One of my loyal and discerning readers, AlbertCan, informed me a few days ago that according to Forbes, Natalia Vodianova had signed with Guerlain (among others) to front products in their advertising campaigns. The news he scooped (and allowed me to …

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Secret Obsession by Calvin Klein: fragrance review

We had announced the news of the upcoming Calvin Klein fragrance back in May and with it a few musings on how these things work as well as commentary by its new face, sexy actress Eva Mendes; who (to her credit) had contributed a few words on body perc…

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Perfume Shrine 2008-09-01 06:06:00

Due to the overwhelming participation in the latest draw for full bottles of Andy Tauer’s new and as yet unreleased Vetiver Dance , I am extending the participation deadline till Thursday midnight. Winners will be announced at the end of the week.

Th…

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Optical Scentsibilities: It’s Not Just a Game!

Some things are destined to become classics:In more ways than one.
The Thomas Crown Affair (1968), directed by Norman Jewison and starring Faye Dunaway and Steve McQueen, is memorable for its tour-de-force of cinematography, split-scenes direction infl…

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Perfumes the Guide gets supplemented!

It was with much interest that I just received news from Luca Turin that his ~co-authored with Tania Sanchez~ book Perfumes, the Guide, which Perfume Shrine had reviewed here, is getting supplemented. Apparently the questions of dr.Turin on what the f…

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Vetiver Dance by Tauer: Fragrance Review and Draw

“She is the embodiment of grace. She flows like water, she glows like fire and has the earthiness of a mortal goddess. She has flowers in her hair, jewelled hands and kohl-dark eyes. Her eyes speak a language that her hands will translate, her feet …

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Guerlain and Chanel upcoming launches: fragrance rumours

As a coda to the Guerlain news on new fragrance we had announced the other day, we were able to find a little more info that might elucidate one of our claims. It was hypothesized that the phrase Guerlain, Une Ville, Un Parfum, recently trademarked by …

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Vetiver Series 4: the Secret of Gender in Vetiver

Have you ever watched a conjurer put a volunteer from the audience into one of those contraptions that open and close via those ornamented Chinese doors? He enters as a man, next thing you see is the magician’s attractive female assistant emerge from t…

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Kapsule by Karl Lagerfeld: new fragrances ~Light, Woody, Floriental

Karl Lagerfeld is best known for a few things: his trademark ponytail, his eye-glaring weight-loss, his prolific churning-out of numerous collections for several brands (Chanel, his own, Fendi etc.) and his perfume fetish. The latter got manifested not…

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Guerlain: Bois Torride and Guerlain, Une Ville, Un Parfum: fragrant news

Perfume Shrine is on an avalanche of heads-up involving upcoming launches from major houses such as Chanel (Beige) and Hermès (Vanille Galante) and today Guerlain news join them.
Is the apocryphal of perfume destined to be revealed on Perfume Shrine?…

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Perfume Shrine 2008-08-24 21:26:00


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New Hermessence Vanille Galante: fragrance news & musings

Hot on the heels of the news on a new Chanel in Les Exclusifs line, named Beige and mysteriously kept under wraps at Saks which however will carry it, as reported on Perfume Shrine first, here come the news on a new Hermessence.

AlbertCan had the scoo…

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Announcement on Winner

And the lucky winner for the draw on a sample of the super rare Dior-Dior is Pyramus!
Please mail me with your info so I can send the prize your way.

Thank you all for participating and stay tuned for another draw soon!

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Take a Bow!

There are times when the esoterica of correspondence has a way of making one realise the little wonders that fill one’s life. Small tidbits that brighten the mundane with fairy dust of a fairy Godmother; a smile and a small confession, some wistfulness…

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Optical Scentsibilities: bottle design, part 2

Bottles get fairly often copied, er…*cough, cough*…”inspired” by other bottles it seems. After all we highlighted some on a previous post. Maybe the bottle designers/sculptors are just a handful (which they are, actually)and the rights for use are …

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Vetiver Racinettes by Ayala Moriel: fragrance review