Natural Aromatics

Perfect Harmony VELVET SKIN Natural Aromatic Body Oil

Perfect Harmony VELVET SKIN Natural Aromatic Body Oil

US $19.99

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Natural Edge Live Edge Slab Aromatic Red Cedar Lumber

Natural Edge Live Edge Slab Aromatic Red Cedar Lumber

US $19.99

Sale

The Natural Perfumers Guild Establishes Grant Program

photo of women carrying kewda pandanus blossoms to distillery in Indiaphoto courtesy Christopher McMillan http://whitelotus.smugmug.com/Anya McCoy, President of the Natural Perfumers Guild is happy to announce that a percentage of Guild membership fees…

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Detecting Smell

I have not read any of the newest tomes on scent detection, and there are several in circulation at the moment. I’ve read Luca Turin’s ‘Secret of Scent’ and have to be honest and say that while I find the study of smell fascinating, this book left me w…

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Research

Probably one of the most difficult tasks a self-trained perfumer has before them ~ all that research.It isn’t enough to read the right books or the books that someone who seems more experienced recommends. Bibliographies in those books are often recomm…

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Agarwood

Missing trees for woods in perfume industryIan JacksonMonday July 7, 2008″Have you ever wondered how much money is involved in the odors of the developed world.So, to make sure there are no big surprises here, I’m not talking about imported Chanel No 5…

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The Perfumer’s Bible

Arctander on Amazon at $194 and change.UPDATE! June 29,2008 ~ Oops! It appears the ‘deal’ went out the door and the books are up to $246. Still, that’s a deal ~ the publisher’s price is usually $349, oh, and maybe a 10 or 20% discount.Another Update! J…

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Underestimating the Power of a Tincture

Just a brief note here ~Tinctures need diluting. Or at the very least, a better understanding of their nature; knowing that some tinctures can rival the strength and quality of a good absolute is important, and they should be used in the same manner as…

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White Witch

Ruth Ruane, aka White Witch, has recently redesigned her website ~ it’s easy to maneuver, easy on the eyes, and the products listed are — well, run on over there and take a peek for yourself!White WitchPhoto copyright White Witch

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Natural&Botanical Perfumery 101 ~ Where to Start

Well, at the beginning, of course. Get thee swiftly to thy apothecary ~ in this case, that would be American Science Surplus, and buy up as many of those little 5 ml dropper bottles as you can fit in the shopping cart (ok, 50 or 75 or 100 are more than…

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rosemary revisited

I had to decant sample vials of Rosemary today and something about its greenish brown gummy character (the absolute is like a olive green hunk of herbaceous fudge) made me wonder how it would behave with chocolate, to sort of play up the fudgy weirdness, and would a particularly dusty and greenish-smell patchouli be an [...]

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Research & Rediscoveries

I spent a bit of time on White Lotus Aromatics’ website perusing the archives. Reading Christopher McMahon’s descriptions of blue lotus & agarwood made me drool.Blue lotus is a spectacular essence. No words can aptly describe it. It produces a phys…

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degrees of coffee

I have a row of bottles at my work bench, filled with freshly roasted coffee beans of various origin, and biodynamic grape alcohol.  They’ve been there since I moved, following a crazed trip to Peet’s for a half pound of decaf that quickly became a quest to try coffees from all producing continents.
What is surprising [...]

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Roses, Roses, Roses

Forbes.com announced today: Bulgaria expects record production of rose oil in 2008Sophia, Bulgaria - Bulgaria’s rose oil distilleries expect record production this season of the ingredient …

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the power of copal and myrrh

I poured and packed three bottles of Ofrenda this morning, for an order.  This is one that I had to make an emergency batch of a couple months ago, because it looked like I’d be running out in June (and lo… it happened).
It’s a bit strange to describe, but I feel like I’m working in [...]

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appreciating roses right now

I had to make up another batch of Medea some weeks ago, and finally filtered it yesterday afternoon, after work.  There is something very guttural and yet refined about how the damask rose plays off of pink lotus, ginger lily, and carnation.  The touch of ambrette in the base (not a predominant note, so I [...]

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Blending & Safety

I think it’s sad how modern natural perfume books (teaching material) have so little information with regard to raw materials’ safety. Redirecting the reader/student elsewhere, away from the book or teaching manual, isn’t a responsible route to take as…

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Frankincense

That, my friends, is the result of two years and one month in the life of a forgotten tincture.Boswellia carteri, pea-sized tears of African origin, soaked and sealed in organic grape alcohol, and abandoned to the dark depths of the Cupboard of Scente…

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timing belts and removing grime

This has absolutely nothing to do with perfume, but aromatics play into it, so I’ll forge along and just post anyway.
We’re trying to get the Buttless Wonder Car to pass smog, which in CA can be quite difficult to do unless you have a brand new vehicle, and it means having to adjust the timing [...]

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antiquated-book-smell, and other things

It’s been done, maybe to death; I’m not sure because I’ve not looked for others doing this for a couple years, but I’m thinking about recreating the smell of antiquated books. Down to the old leather binding.
I know to start with some antique terpeneless patchouli I managed to source a long time ago, and [...]

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explorations of Pogostemon cablin

I have a 16 oz bottle of dark patchouli from India that I’ve been hoarding for about six years. Aside from it making the opening of the bottle a bit tarry over time, it has aged into something really special. Golden, fruity, contemplative, green, herbaceous, dusty, sweet freshly-turned soil. All at once.
So [...]

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co-distills and attars rock

I’ve been playing with attars in a very limited fashion for some years now.  There are the obvious tonalities like mitti (baked earth distilled into sandalwood), gulhina (henna into same), motia (jasmine sambac into same), et al.
But you can get attars (I think these are technically co-distills) in vetiver as well.  My current favorite is [...]

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co-distills and attars rock

I’ve been playing with attars in a very limited fashion for some years now.  There are the obvious tonalities like mitti (baked earth distilled into sandalwood), gulhina (henna into same), motia (jasmine sambac into same), et al.
But you can get attars (I think these are technically co-distills) in vetiver as well.  My current favorite is [...]

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eau de cologne, again

Jiminy crickets.  This addition of water stuff really gives me fits.
I managed to add a few milliliters of filtered water to one blend, minimal clouding.  The trick is to either work with one of those magnetic stirrer jobbies, or to be really thorough and swift with your stirring rod as you add drop by drop.
The [...]

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Saffron

From Lise Manniche (Sacred Luxuries), “…The well-known flower pistils of Crocus sativus relate to Egypt only as far as saffron is an ingredient in the kyphi recipe provided by Galen.  This presumably occurred because saffron was much loved in the classical world for its scent as well as its colour.  It was known in the [...]

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EdC Revisited

I felt I’d done quite well with my first real attempt at an EdC. That is, I felt that way until this morning.Trying to put a new twist on an old formula isn’t as easy as you might think. Other folks are chiming in with what they’ve done to tweak the fo…

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eau de cologne

Hungary Water, Koelnische Wasser, 4711, the stuff that Napoleon Drenched Himself In By the Quart…
I did two standard recipes for this today.  Both of them have thyme as an herbaceous element.  Both of them have rosemary.  I really do not like the effect the rosemary has on the lemony elements; it turns them into a [...]

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Mountain Misery

Chamaebatia foliolosa, supposedly a member of the rose family, is a scent once sniffed is never forgotten.Mountain Misery, it’s common name, or Kit Kit Dizze, it’s less common- common name, is the scent of the Sierra Nevada mountains. Deeply green and …

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bread and baked goods

I was too beat to post last night, but it was on the tip of my brain to think a bit about foodie scents and their place in perfume.  Some folks call them ‘gourmand’.
Generally speaking, these are not odors I seek out, at all.  The idea of smelling like my aunt’s kitchen the after she’s [...]

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Arctander is good for the imagination…

…I managed to get a copy of Arctander from Amazon awhile ago for substantially less than any of the other outlets claiming to offer a discount (I think it’s quite ballsy to call it a discount when you’re working your angle as the only gig in town for a reprint), and just wanted to note [...]

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I miss my Cistus purpurea

When I moved in February, I left behind a huge shrub that’d started out as a wee 4-inch pot from a local nursery.  It bloomed like crazy all year, save the rainy season and when it got seriously cold.  And the cuttings were nice.
The BF gave it a haircut every year, sometimes twice a year, [...]

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Classic EDC

I’ve been playing around with Eau de Colognes of late ~ attempting to recreate formulas, and come up with a few of my own.The whole water issue with EdC’s kind of scare me. I remember when I was new to natural perfumery, I attempted an EdC based on a f…

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Musk rose (hard to find, but worth it)

I was talking about using blue lotus phytol, a few posts down…
I also happen to have a small (okay, hoarded) quantity of musk rose phytol.  Rosa moschatus.
Because Circe is almost running low, I broke it out today to use in that perfume.  Musk rose is like rose petal preserves.  But it’s not marmalade like a [...]

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Orris, sweet and dusty orris

I went to Lise Manniche for an entry on iris this morning, because I felt like I was missing something in my appreciation.
“Varieties of iris grow wild in Egypt today; Dioscorides gave nar as its Egyptian name. Petals of Iris albicans Lange or I. florentina have been identified in an Egyptian burial of Graeco-Roman [...]

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Gathering the Green

I’m obsessed with green.I want to run out and gather up leaves and grass to tincture. Chaparral — manzanita in particular — intrigues me. I’m inspired by Roxana Villa’s ‘Q’ parfum built around an oak leaf tincture. She and I had brief email conversa…

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Yuzu

I remember my first experience with this essence as being sort of meh. No big deal, I thought. Now, years later, I find myself craving the scent of this odd little citrus.It is not sweet and robust as orange essence, nor subtly tart as lemon, or sheer …

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Leather

I’ve been experimenting with creating leather accords, pushing the leathers toward gourmand and simple rankness.The gourmand leather accord is pretty interesting. Among many of its components is valerian root tincture. Valerian, as supremely rank as it…

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Musings

As some of you who read this blog know, I’ve taken time off from the grind of mass producing skincare and perfume products to study. When I initially made the decision, I thought it would be difficult — y’know, being separated from my loyal customers,…

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Botanical Alchemy Series

.flickr-photo { border: solid 2px #000000; }.flickr-yourcomment { }.flickr-frame { text-align: left; padding: 3px; }.flickr-caption { font-size: 0.8em; margin-top: 0px; } Alchemy Notebook: Tree of Stars, originally uploaded by Ninth Wave Designs. Ay…

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alcohol, the perfect medium

Alcohol-based perfumes have this reputation preceding them, which I’d never quite realized the scope of until I started creating eau de parfum, experimenting ever more with high-proof grain and grape alcohols.
For some reason, alcohol is almost universally viewed as a diluent rather than as a carrier for aromatics, or a blending medium, or, how to [...]

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spikenard, Nardostachys jatamansi

There are multiple forms of this available, but I favor the amber.  Spikenard is the renowned ‘nard’ that the woman (one of the women to form the Mary Magdalene composite character in the Bible) anointed Jesus’ feet with.
So, it has religiously symbolic trappings, which appeal.  A nose-governed friend of mine asked if Mary Magdalene could [...]

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Damascena, Centifolia, Bourbonia, Moschatus, and how!

May had me in the planning stages of a project based around roses, and June has seen that to completion, sort of. We’re still blending and reblending and aging and tweaking, but I think that the rosy end of the tunnel is approaching!
The rose is one of the longest-cultivated flowers. It is traditionally [...]

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